Discovering 10 Lunch Joints That Are Easy to Miss
by Kathryn Maese
When it comes to eating lunch, it often seems there’s nothing new to try, nowhere else to go. You’ve been to/done them all at one point or another. And nothing against all the old standbys like Pete’s, Daily Grill, Philippe’s and the Pantry, but sometimes you just need a change of pace.
It just so happens that Downtown Los Angeles is chock full of small, hole-in-the-wall places (though some are bigger and nicer than others) that you may have overlooked or never thought to try simply because you lacked a recommendation. Well, here’s what you’ve been waiting for.
Sure, you may already patronize some of these establishments. But very few people know about all 10. Hopefully the following list will enliven your staid lunch routine.
Kim Chuy should be a staple for any self-respecting Downtown diner. If you’ve ever shopped in Chinatown, chances are you’ve seen this little gem of a noodle shop a hundred times. Located on the busy corner of the Far East Plaza facing Broadway, Kim Chuy is always packed with hungry patrons who come for the excellent Chui Chow style soup. Just about every table will be slurping from sizeable bowls of the steaming concoctions, chopsticks in one hand and a spoon in the other. There are nearly 20 versions to suit your mood, starting with the rice noodle wonton soup packed with pork balls, shrimp and a little bit of duck (this one is recommended for beginners). Of course, there are versions full of duck, spiced beef, fish balls or sliced pork. The kitchen also turns out nice rice and noodle dishes - the spiced beef with flat noodles is delish. Don’t forget an order of the fried leek cakes, which are worth the trip alone and can be accompanied by the table’s well-stocked arsenal of condiments from fiery sriracha to wicked jalapeņo slices to hoisin sauce. Kim Chuy may be no-frills, but it packs a tasty punch.
At 727 N. Broadway, #103, (213) 687-7215 or kimchuy.com. Validated parking for 30 minutes. Open daily 7 a.m.-7 p.m.
Kouraku has been on First Street in Little Tokyo for ages, and late in the evening you’ll routinely spot a youthful crowd chowing down on cheap noodles, potstickers and pork fried rice; they’re all perfect after a night on the town (or if you’re nursing a hangover). Think of Kouraku as your friendly Japanese diner, with well-worn orange booths, slightly sticky surfaces, food specials taped to the wall and a cozy counter for slurping up your ramen. If you’re game for a nostalgic dining experience, you’ll dig Kouraku.
Just south of the hustle and bustle of the Fashion District is the unassuming Santee Falafel, a tiny joint with five tables that’s a mainstay for local workers, shoppers and anyone else lucky enough to stumble across it. There’s a single cook behind a counter that runs nearly the length of the sparse space, churning out the Mediterranean fare at lightning speed.
Glance up and you’ll see color photos of every dish on the menu, about 20 in all. It’s dangerous if you’re really hungry, because everything looks and smells so good. The vegetarian plate stands out, with fried balls of falafel, a salad, hummus, baba gannoush and tabouleh. There are all manner of kabobs, including chicken, beef and lamb, as well as meat shaved from a spit. The pita sandwiches are quite popular, as is the sizeable rotisserie chicken combo. Order ahead and pick up to save time.
At 1335 S. Santee St. (corner of Santee and 14th streets), (213) 749-2555. Open Mon.-Sat. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Street or lot parking.
If you’re anywhere near Downtown’s east side, meaning the Arts District, stop in at Blue Dahlia for lunch. This quaint, petite cafe and wine bar has made a name for itself among locals. Except for two sidewalk tables you could almost miss it, but once inside you’ll discover a contemporary yet cozy space decked out in earth tones, dark wood and mirrors. A lovely patio is strung with lights.
The stained concrete floor leads to a small counter where you can order in or take out. The menu is simple but tasty, with cheese, meat and olive antipasti, about a half-dozen salads that include a chicken Caesar and ahi tuna version, and a dozen delicious panini - try the one with prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, tomato, basil and balsamic. It comes with either a small side salad or basic fruit. There’s all manner of coffee and even homemade lemonade in a jar. Or order a glass of wine and linger over lunch.
At 738 E. Third St., (213) 613-0621. Open weekdays for lunch at 11 a.m. Limited street parking.
In a city chock full of Mexican eateries, it says a lot when savvy Angelenos swear by one restaurant. La Taquiza is on the southern end of Downtown in a strip mall near USC. While it’s not much to look at, it boasts mouthwatering meals, which you can see being prepared behind the counter by a cadre of cooks. Combo plates are heaped with all manner of beans, rice and meat, like the salty and charred carne asada tacos topped with salsa roja, chopped onion and cilantro, or the succulent al pastor, sliced off a huge spit and tucked inside the restaurant’s fresh corn tortillas. Also known as “La Casa de las Mulitas,” one of La Taquiza’s specialties is the mulita, two corn tortillas sandwiched together with cheese, meat and guacamole. The salsa bar offers more options than the DMV’s automated phone system, with a rainbow of salsas, pickled carrots, radishes and the like. Wash it all down with a watermelon agua fresca. It can get frantic during the lunch rush, but you won’t regret the wait.
At 3026 S. Figueroa St., (213) 741-9795. Limited parking in the lot.
While far from a hole in the wall, Shekarchi is a bit off the beaten path. Located across from the Loft Appeal furniture store, the restaurant has tinted windows, but don’t let that turn you off. Lunch crowds fill the casual yet stylish dining room, which features a pleasant wall fountain. Behind the counter, the kitchen crew frantically tears through orders, preparing plates of grilled meat and basmati rice for hungry customers.
The kabob is king at this Persian palace, and the 11 varieties ($11-$18) come with the abovementioned heap of rice (including specialty choices studded with sweet and tart dried fruit or seasoned with fresh dill) and grilled tomato and onion. Whether you order the lamb, filet, chicken, ground beef or Cornish chicken, somehow it all tastes better stuffed into a piece of pita with a squeeze of lime and a dusting of smoky paprika seasoning. You can also get half orders for $9.
At 914 S. Hill St., (213) 892-8535. Open weekdays 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Validated lot parking for $3.
The ramen culture is a serious one. And one of the most opinionated to boot. Devotees are tough critics, scrutinizing everything from the soup base (How long was it boiled? Did it have pork bones?) to the pork bobbing on top (Are portions skimpy? Is the meat appropriately fatty? Is it flavorful?). Enter Daikokuya, a Little Tokyo ramen house that frequently turns up on many of the “best” ramen lists in the city. More often than not the tiny space is packed, but it’s worth the wait. Eating at the counter is more fun than a table, since you get a bird’s-eye view of the steaming, fast-paced kitchen. The ramen comes in only two ways: with toppings in the bowl or on the side ($7.50/$7.95). Daikokuya’s secret is its rich soup base, which is made by boiling pork bones and soy sauce, among other things, for more than 24 hours. It’s topped off with a generous handful of green onions, soy-infused boiled egg, bean sprouts, bamboo shoots and kurobuta pork. The portion is enough for two but you won’t want to share.
College kids always seem to sniff out good, cheap eats, which leads us to Pasta Roma near USC. Tucked into a mini-mall, this quick Italian eatery draws crowds for its array of pasta dishes, pizza, calzones, salads and other classics. You’ll start cafeteria style by grabbing a tray and sliding it along the rail as you look at the photos on the wall. Pastas are abundant and tasty, from pesto to vodka penne to ravioli. There are hefty calzones, various pizza creations with a nice thin crust, and chicken dishes such as cacciatore and picata. Most of the items are under $10. Slide your tray to the register, get a drink and they’ll bring your order to the table. Oh, and don’t forget the soft, yeasty garlic knots. They’re a highlight.
At 2827 S. Figueroa St., (213) 742-0303. Open daily at 11 a.m.
You’ll see just about every type here, from cops on break to Asian families to tattooed 20-somethings; think of Won Kok as the Chinatown equivalent of the Swingers diner. It looks like a ‘70s time capsule, with large, round, formica tables, red vinyl chairs, mirrors and a late-night vibe that lingers even during lunch (it’s open until 3 a.m.). The menu is absolutely huge and overwhelming, but items are inexpensive - about $5-$6 - so order away and take home leftovers. Don’t be afraid to ask the waiters to recommend a dish. There’s incredibly fluffy bao buns, tasty wonton soup, garlic shrimp, ginger beef, rice porridge and the house specialty fried rice doused in a vinegary chili sauce. Come with a bunch of office mates or friends and share the food on the Lazy Susan. It’s good times at Won Kok.
Though there are several food stands on Olvera Street, La Noche Buena is often the most crowded. There are only a handful of tables and even fewer counter stools, which makes it feel like you’re eating in your grandmother’s kitchen. The addictive taquitos are lovely fried creations stuffed with shredded beef and doused in green avocado sauce. The tacos al pastor and combo plates are also popular. Pair it with an horchata drink and you’ve got one tasty lunch.
Contact Kathryn Maese at .
